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Who Serves The Best Beef Along The Sound Shore?

There are good steaks to be had where you might expect, and where you might not...

 

The great ongoing debate among area carnivores continues unabated, each beefeater swearing unwaveringly about who puts down the best steaks in town. When asked to answer the question here in southern Westchester, I staked my territory and soon found--when limited to a geographic area from Port Chester to New Rochelle along the Sound Shore--that the "best steaks in town" could be found not only in a couple of our true steakhouses, but also in restaurants of a more general theme that go the extra mile to beef up their menus.

So while we lament the loss of Ye Olde Tollgate Steakhouse in Mamaroneck (it was one of the better beef destinations), tag along and get your steak knives ready for more.

For the past few years beef aficionados in southern Westchester and beyond have claimed their benchmark to be Frankie & Johnnie's Steakhouse in Rye, and it has been my personal experience that it has improved with age. It is part of the Frankie & Johnnie's group operating steakhouses in Manhattan and Hoboken, N.J. since 1926.

Housed in the former Rye Trust Bank building, this tri-level 130-seat restaurant with sweeping ceilings, classic bustling bar/lounge, giant mural, mosaic glass, booth seating on the main level and an inviting second tier above, certainly creates a dramatic backdrop for putting down hefty hunks of high-end prime aged beef.

Vas, the general manager, and his hostess welcomed us at the reception desk (we were without a reservation but it was early into the dinner hour on a Friday evening) and we were graciously shown to a great table on the second level overlooking the entire scene.

We needed a few minutes to adjust to the expansive surroundings and our extraordinary waitress Ines was most accommodating, explaining all the options on the menu and filling us in on the little interesting details about the restaurant. A good bread basket arrived filled with a house-made assortment  and crackly, seeded flatbreads that are a favorite of mine. Another plus, the butter was soft for smearing.

What to order? I knew my challenge so I went right for the USDA prime dry aged New York Sirloin ($42) as a main course. For starters we preceded it with fresh Tuna Tartare ($18 with a side order of wasabi), and a half-dozen Blue Point Oysters ($14). A refreshing special Arugula & Endive Salad served with gravy trays of tasty aged balsamic and gorgonzola cheese ($12) only made my palate long for more.

The big steak arrived in all its 2-inch thick 24 0z. glory exactly as ordered: medium. Each cut of beef was delicous with slight char on the outside and pink inside. On the side we had a requisite bowl of creamed spinach ($9) and a platter of sauteed mushrooms and onions ($9). The mushrooms were addicting, while the creamed spinach, though good, was actually too creamy for my taste. It could have doubled as a decadent steak sauce. The house steak sauce, by the way, has a pleasing spicy edge to it. A bottle of Saint-Esprit Cotes du Rhone 2007 ($40) was a fine complement to the meal. Every dish in our table was easily shareable.

Frankie & Johnnie's Steakhouse, 77 Purchase Street, Rye 914-925-3900 www.frankieandjohnniescom

Chef Brian MacMenamin, formerly of MacMenamin's Grill, has been bringing his talents to bare at the new Post Road Ale House in New Rochelle and over the  past several months he has done a remarkable job of tweaking the atmosphere and his eclectic gastro-pub menu.

Recently he added a hearty selection of grilled steaks and chops. So while not a steakhouse per se, customers can sit down and enjoy a bowl of Three Onion Soup with Swiss Cheese Glaze Croustade ($5), or New England Clam Chowder ($6); Maryland Crab Cake ($10); even Escargot Meuniere with garlic pesto butter ($9), then get down to big cuts of New York Sirloin ($29), T-bone Steak, or center cut Filet Mignon ($26) that are quite satisfying.  (His surf & turf: Tuscan grilled Filet Mignon with Grilled Shrimp served with Bearnaise sauce is a winner too and only $20.)

All customers get complimentary orders of delectable grill-pressed garlic bread sticks. My palate began rolling immediately. A good way to start is with a couple of appetizers and a fresh salad served individually or family style with your choice of dressing ($7 per person).

Our 20 oz. Black Angus T-bone Steak au jus ($29) arrived on a platter alongside an excellent dose of creamed spinach ( in this case more chopped spinach than cream). We also ordered an extra side of chopped roasted root vegetables & leafy greens ($6). As a boon to your wallet, all selections from the grill come with mashed potatoes or creamed spinach, or an optional ($5) Wild Irish Whiskey Sauce. My glass of Goose Ale ($6.50) and Iron Stone Cabernet ($8)  went will with everything else.

The restaurant is open seven days a week for lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch highlighting modern American tavern fare with most entrees under $20. Additonal features include: a fresh daily raw bar; specialty wines and beers; and a chef's table near the kitchen. Hight ceilings--with exposed wood beams and pipes--cherry wood floors, booths and a sparkling brick walled bar add to the atmosphere.

Post Road Ale House, 11-13 Huguenot Street, New Rochelle 914-633-4610 www.postroadalehouse.com

The  Willett House in Port Chester was born in 1990 as Westchester's first home- grown upscale steakhouse, the brainchild of a group of local entrepreneurs led by John Hopkins. The idea was to offer the greater Westchester dining community an alternative to traveling to New York City for great steaks. Why not just do it up here?

The vintage building housing the restaurant (originally known as the Westchester Grain Company) was handsomely restored with its masculine Pub Room and Bar highlighted by old 19th Century local photographs; a dramatic Mural Room with its giant painting depticting the area's historic commerce along the Byram River and private event rooms in the rear. When The Willett changed hands a decade later, proprietor George Slider set out to enhance all the vintage trappings, while still maintaining a commendable level of consistency in the prime aged steaks, chops and alternative dishes coming out of this kitchen.

My luncheon encounter at the bar in the Pub Room was a very good one, indeed. Rich, the barkeep and host on this particular Monday afternoon, was an old acquaintance who has been working here almost since its start. My own roots go back to the grand opening so I looked forward to catching up on the stories and scenery now that The Willett is entering its 20th anniversay.

I started my meal with an order of the Tomato Capri Salad, sliced tomatoes and mozzarella on a bed of lettuce topped with a terrific vinaigrette ($12) that made my palate bounce. My 12 oz. prime Shell Steak ($28 for the luncheon cut) came with complimentary orders of sauteed mushrooms and fried onions. Very impressive! Every element, from the medium rare, tender flavorful steak, great sauteed mushrooms and addictive fried onions was a winner! No kidding. The house steak sauce is still delicious as I remember it years ago, though I must admit I hardly needed it on my beef...it was that good. A cold mug of Bass Ale ($8) was a pleaser too.

The Willett House, 20 Willett Ave., Port Chester 914-939-7500 www.thewilletthouse.com

The hunt for good beef in southern Westchester doesn't end there, you know. Check out: Artie's Steak & Seafood Restaurant, City Island www.artiesofcityisland.com; TuttaBella Trattoria, Eastchester/Scarsdale www.valbellasteakhouse.com; Mo's New York Grill, New Rochelle www.mosnewyorkgrill.com; good steak frites at Le Provencal Bistro, Mamaroneck www.provencalbistro.com; & Encore Bistro Francais, Larchmont www.encore-bistro.com; and Fuji Mountain, Larchmont (914-833-3838), for typical Japanese hibachi style steak with all the cooking choreography included.

(Morris Gut is a restaurant consultant and former restaurant trade magazine editor. He has been tracking and writing about the dining scene in greater Westchester for over 25 years.He may be reached at: 914-235-6591. E-mail: gutreactions@optonline.net)

 

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