Turquoise chef Mustafa Eski was born and raised in Mersin, a southern coastal province of Turkey. In his early teens he often went fishing and on occasion hooked swordfish, red mullet, bonito (a member of the mackerel family) and even tuna. But catching, bringing home and cleaning fish was the extent of his involvement with the family kitchen. Among his eight siblings were four older sisters who provided all the help his mother needed in the kitchen.

At 16, he took an after-school job at a restaurant. He was a fast learner and after graduating high school, the restaurant owner persuaded him to stay on as a full-time kitchen employee. When Eski was 21 he entered military service as a cook.

Three years later, in 1998, he arrived in America and was hired by Emin Acar to work at his Turkish restaurant in Mamaroneck. Acar opened a gourmet food store in Larchmont in 2002 and when he converted it into a restaurant called Turquoise in 2004, Eski was put in charge of the kitchen.

When Turquoise opened, it served traditional Turkish cuisine and the menu has changed little since then. Regular customers rarely bother to ask for a menu. Few liberties are taken in the kitchen unless necessitated by ingredient availability. 

During the six-century lifetime of the Ottoman Empire, Turkish food evolved from the cuisines of neighboring countries, Central Asia, the Middle East, the Balkans, nations on the Mediterranean and the countries of western Europe. The sultans revered food with a passion and recruited the finest chefs from near and far to cook in the palace at Constantinople (now known as Istanbul).

Many of the dishes cooked today by Turquoise have stood the test of time. An example, Acar said, is Imam Bayildi. 

In the Turkish language, Acar explained, Imam Bayildi stands for "the imam fainted." According to Turkish lore, this dish was named many centuries ago for a priest who married the daughter of a wealthy merchant in order to receive a valuable dowry—paid in jugs of olive oil. To the priest's amazement, his new wife was an excellent cook. Her fried eggplant was so delicious he devoured it night after night for dinner until finally the supply of olive oil was exhausted. When told by his wife he must buy more olive oil from her father, the priest fainted.

For the first-time visitor to Turquoise, to become acquainted with Turkish food Eski recommends ordering an eight-item, cold meze assortment of humus (chick peas with garlic, sesame paste, herbs and olive oil), Patlican (pureed smoked eggplant), Ezme (finely chopped tomatoes, onions, parsley and walnuts), Pilaki (white beans and vegetables in olive oil), grape leaves stuffed with rice and pine nuts with olive oil, Babaganus (smoked eggplant with sesame oil and herbs), feta cheese with olives and Cacik (dried cucumbers).

The best selling entrees at Turquoise, Eski said, are

• Branzino (this popular Mediterranean sea bass is available year round, chargrilled or broiled)
• Royal Dorado (a Mediterranean fish similar to red snapper)
• Shwarma (thinly sliced lamb over warm pita bread with tomato sauce and yogurt on the side) 
• Lamb Mousaka (marinated lamb cooked with onions, peppers, tomatoes and eggplant, and served with tomato sauce).

Most popular among the appetizers, said Eski, are marinated baby octopus with olive oil and lemon juice, hummus, and Mucver (Zucchini pancake).

Eski is especially partial to seafood—his favorite Turquoise dish by far is branzino and it has been for years. Owner Acar has trouble deciding between the branzino and the shwarma. A regular customer said she is especially fond of the baby lamb chops, which are served with grilled tomato and pepper, and her favorite dessert is Baklava. 

A potent alcoholic beverage to savor, the chef said, is Raki, a popular aperitif in Turkey. The name stands for "lion's milk" - the idea being that you may need  the courage of a lion to drink it.

Less intimidating are the specialty cocktails—the two most popular are the Istanbul Cosmopolitan (Absolut Citron vodka, Triple Sec and a dash of cranberry and lime juices) and Ephesus Dream (Absolut Ruby Red Vodka with Patron Citronge orange liqueur, lime juice and cranberry juice). A large selection of Turkish and international wines is available. Particularly popular are red and white wines from Kavaklidere.


The menu also includes falafel and other vegetarian selections. A children's menu offers two "adult" selections: chicken kebab and lamb chops. Party or event catering is offered and take-out is available.

Owner Acar also runs a charter yacht business and a villa rental service.

Turquoise serves lunch and dinner seven days a week from noon  to 11 p.m., and it is usually open on holidays. The terrace is open weather permitting. 1895 Palmer Ave., Larchmont, N.Y. 914.834.9888. www.turqmed.com.