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Business & Tech

Meet The Chef: Jose Leon of Chat 19

Patch profiles great chefs and explores the paths they took to become acclaimed leaders in the kitchen.

Rainbow trout can be caught in the rivers that run through Cuenca in southern Ecuador, but as a child, chef Jose Leon much preferred to go ocean fishing for tuna and catfish. "My grandfather took me," said Leon. "He was a fire department chief but he had served as a captain in the Ecuadorian marines and he loved the sea," he recalled. "We would go out for two or three days at a time, catch fish and cook them onboard using a propane stove."

His father owned a restaurant, a supermarket and a farm, so when Leon arrived in America at the age of 17, he knew enough about food to gain entry-level employment at a New York City restaurant. Four years later he joined West Bank Cafe in Manhattan as sous chef, and after only three months was promoted to executive chef. He stayed for ten years before deciding  to enroll full-time at the French Culinary Institute in Manhattan. While attending school, he worked part-time at Smith and Wollensky, an upscale steakhouse founded by Alan Stillman.

Following graduation from FCI in 1998, Leon joined Lusardi's in Larchmont, and in November 2004, he became executive chef at which had been opened six months earlier in Larchmont by the owners of Lusardi's.

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As the summer of 2005 approached, Leon and general manager Frank Gratale decided to make some changes in Chat 19's menu. "It was too safe and too similar to menus of many other American cuisine restaurants," said Gratale.  So they began introducing new dishes as specials to gauge reaction from customers. Gradually, a more adventurous and imaginative menu evolved.

More than once, however, they have replaced a dish on the menu only to have customers clamor for it to be brought back. A recent example is the Sear Pepper Salmon; dropped last fall, it will return to the 2010 fall menu because of patron demand. This dish is seasoned with black pepper and includes lentil ragu, bacon and onions.

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Veal porterhouse will appear on the fall menu to be introduced in about two weeks. Coming initially as specials only are Burrata mozzarella and strawberry salad (toasted almonds, baby spinach and ricotta).

To the burger list now on the menu (Kobe, regular, turkey and veggie), a new beef burger will be added having bacon, blue cheese and hot peppers (look for it as the "19" burger.)

Leon's favorite Chat 19 appetizer is tuna tartare. He was introduced to tuna tartare when he was 12 by his grandfather during a fishing trip and it has been one of his favorite foods ever since. Sesame- and soy-infused, it's served at Chat 19 with avocado and includes an ingredient his grandfather also used: plantain chips.

Leon's favorite main course is sliced steak with sauteed spinach and mashed potatoes. For dessert he finds it difficult to choose between a banana split or mixed berries with chocolate.

Gratale prefers a spinach or artichoke dip as a starter and grilled meatloaf as an entree. "Our's is the best meatloaf I have ever tasted," he said. "And I try meatloaf everywhere I go just to see how it compares with Jose's." Chat 19's meatloaf is bacon-wrapped and includes mushrooms, cilantro, onions, ketchup, egg, Worcestershire sauce, Japanese breadcrumbs and Tabasco sauce. Cheesecake is his favorite dessert.

Gratale, an avid Yankees fan, played second base for teams in the Chicago Cubs organization in Mesa, Ariz., and Daytona Beach, Fla.

Diners who frequent Chat 19 include New York Mets outfielder Jason Bay and fashion industry executive Andy Hilfiger. 

Chat 19 is one of four restaurants in Westchester County owned by Mario Fava. The other three are Lusardi's, opened 16 years ago, and Chat American Grill and Moscato in Scarsdale.

Chat 19 is located at 19 Chatsworth Ave., Larchmont. 914-833-8871. It is open from 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. on Monday through Thursday; from 11 a.m. to midnight on Friday and Saturday; and from 11 am. to 10 p.m. on Sunday. Brunch is served on Saturday and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. www.chat19.net.

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