La Sala Offers Genteel Dining Experience

La Sala's general manager Marcello Rugova presides over a genteel dining room offering classic regional Italian specialties with smooth tableside pizazz. On my last few visits I was often surprised with the lush flavors served in this warm, old world setting. As I write this review, the house is undergoing an enhancement of the interior that will mark the new season.

Rugova is a professional working alongside a veteran team, as did his brother, Florio, before him. (Florio, by the way, can now be found lavishing his customers at their highly regarded sister restaurant, La Fontanella in Pelham.) These are young guys, yet they make you recall a time when dining out was a bit more formal and the entire experience was accorded respect.

Customers are seated in a 60-seat dining room highlighted with green floral carpeting, plush gold curtained windows, colorful original artwork and Technicolor faux floral displays. Multi-color plates are placed on yellow and beige tabletops. A handsome wine rack on the wall in the rear displays part of the house vintage wine list. There is a cozy partitioned bar.

Once seated you are served a flavorful lagniappe of house-made enticements: a tasty red pepper spread made with peppers, sundried tomatoes, garlic and mascarpone cheese; sauteed zucchini and fresh bruschetta with chopped tomatoes and olive oil. They meld well with the crusty bread basket. We recommend that you ask for the bread to be slightly toasted and the house will comply.

Now contemplate the menu. Fine starters include solid renditions of asparagus and prosciutto di Parma in a spicy avocado sauce with shaved parmigiano cheese; a refreshing rustica salad with titillating vinaigrette; Spiedino Romano, sliced bread stuffed with fresh mozzarella, pan-fried and served with caper-anchovy sauce; and tuna carpaccio, thin sliced tuna served over arugula with virgin olive oil and lemon. The La Sala salad includes mixed greens, walnuts, raisins, apples and goat cheese in a raspberry vinaigrette.

Hearty pastas include a good linguini vongole, with white or red clam sauce; whole wheat fettuccine served with broccoli rabe and cannelloni beans; a rich gnocchi al forno with pancetta, endive, sage and Gorgonzola cheese; and a fine spaghetti carbonara, with shallots, bacon, prosciutto di Parma, white wine and just a touch of cream.

Generously served entrees may include their unique huge lobster/seafood risotto, a special one evening, loaded with lobster, fresh scallops and mussels; filet of sole almondine, with white wine, lemon and roasted almonds; a flavorful chicken martini, boneless breasts crusted with parmigiano cheese, sauteed with white wine, and lemon with asparagus; veal Columbo, cutlets with prosciutto di Parma, sliced tomato and mozzarella, sauteed with cognac and a touch of cream; and hearty traditional grille pork chops served with vinegar peppers. There's also a hefty double-cut veal chop that will satiate your meat craving.

Good a la carte sides include: broccoli rabe, sauteed spinach and asparagus parmigiana.

There are no dress restrictions here, but it is the type of place where you don't mind putting on that new shirt or pair of slacks.

Special Hint: There is a daily lunch special that includes mixed green salad and choice of such entrees as: chicken Sorrentino, sole francese and salmon Dijon, plus coffee or tea, for $12. Entree-sized salads, sandwiches and even burgers are also available. Complete three-course dinners are served before 6 p.m. for $29.95 per person. And on Thursday nights the house serves a 2-pound lobster dinner with linguini, mixed salad, coffee and dessert for $38.

There are facilities for private parties downstairs.

Ristorante La Sala is located at 2047 Boston Post Rd., Larchmont. Lunch is served noon to 3 pm. Tuesday-Friday. Main courses: $7 to $18. Dinner served Tuesday-Thursday, 5 pm to 10 pm; Friday and Saturday to 11 pm; Sundays from 5 pm to 9 pm. Main courses at dinner: $19 to $36. Cocktails/bar. TV. Private party room.  Major credit cards. Closed Mondays. Proper casual dress. Free and valet parking. Reservations accepted. Phone: 914-833-7900. www.ristorantelasala.com

(Morris Gut is a restaurant consultant and former restaurant trade magazine editor. He has been tracking and writing about the dining scene in greater Westchester for over 25 years. He may be reached at: 914-235-6591. E-mail: gutreactions@optonline.net)