La Piccola Casa: New Location, Same Quality

Proprietor and self-taught chef Walter Ricci is originally from Peru and had an Italian grandfather. Thru the years he worked many popular kitchens in greater Westchester, including the former Umberto's in Rye and Giorgio's in Port Chester, which he ran for 10 years.

Last May Ricci moved his cozy 14-year-old La Piccola Casa from the old Le Shack location along Rt. 1 in Mamaroneck to refurbished new quarters in the landmark DeLancey House across from scenic Orienta, where author James Fenimore Cooper lived for a time. It has taken time for Ricci to regain his footing, but after some recent meals, he has hit his stride with flavor and gusto.

Ricci recently premiered a new updated, more value-conscious menu featuring many of his well-known specialties. There is no rocking the boat on this menu, it is not trendy, but there is admirable concentration  on the finest, fresh ingredients he can find daily at the market for his classic renditions of Italian regional cuisine. He is most passionate about what comes out of his kitchen.

Great starters include: a lovely version of an old standard clams oreganata, fresh, tasty and brought to new heights here. A refreshing seafood salad comes with shrimp and calamari marinated with lemon, onions, olive oil, served with roasted peppers. There is a classic Caesar salad; arugula & endive salad; and fried calamari served with dipping sauce.

Hearty pastas prepared with Walter's special house-made sauces include: angel hair La Piccola Casa in a light Bolognese with cream, tomatoes, prosciutto, beef and peas; linguini pescatore, chocked full of mussels, clams, fish, shrimp and calamari in tomato sauce; ravioli filetto di pomodori, filled with spinach, veal and cheese, served with a fresh tomato-basil sauce; farfalla with meat ragu; veal tortellini in a Bolognese sauce; and a fine version of angel hair with red or white clam sauce. The La Piccola Casa pink sauce is so popular it is available for take home.

Beautifully prepared main courses include: snapper possilipo, sauteed with white wine, onions, garlic and marinara sauce, garnished with shrimp and clams; and a hefty veal chop Milanese style, pounded thin, breaded and pan-fried in olive oil, topped with fresh chopped tomatoes and arugula salad (one of this reporter's summer favorites). Pollo scarpariello is served off the bone here, chunks of white and dark meat chicken sauteed with garlic, onions, mushrooms and white wine; flavorful versions of shrimp or chicken francese style; and veal marsala, scallopini of veal sauteed with marsala wine and porcini mushrooms.

A big, broiled veal chop and sirloin steak prepared pizzaiola style are on the menu, too, along with such long-time favorites as chicken or veal Parmigiana.

At lunch there are several entree-size salads available, such as the grilled chicken Caesar, or grilled shrimp salad.

Special Hint: If you enjoy soft shell crab season, this is the spot to indulge. Chef Ricci knows how to keep his soft shells plump, meaty and juicy. I like them prepared meuniere style, but he will fry them up for you, too. The best version of soft shell crab I've had in the Westchester area this year!

La Piccola Casa is friendly and cozy with a delightful view of Orienta Harbor from the bar/lounge room, where there are several tables and their new outdoor umbrella deck. It's a good spot for networking, too.

La Piccola Casa is located at 410 W. Boston Post Rd., Mamaroneck. The restaurant is open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner. Lunch: main courses $9.95 to $13.95. Dinner: main courses $16.95 to $31.95. Bar/lounge with TV. Seasonal outdoor deck. Major credit cards. Casual dress. Free street parking. Reservations accepted, suggested for larger groups. Phone: 914-777-3766.

(Morris Gut is a restaurant consultant and former restaurant trade magazine editor. He has been tracking and writing about the dining scene in greater Westchester for over 25 years. He may be reached at: 914-235-6591. E-mail: gutreactions@optonline.net)